Istanbul Food Guide: What to Eat and Where

Istanbul is one of the world's great eating cities, and there is far more to it than the kebab. Here is what to seek out, neighbourhood by neighbourhood.

The Turkish breakfast (kahvaltı)

A long, lazy Turkish breakfast is the city's most underrated experience. Expect a table covered in small plates: white cheese, kaymak, honey, jams, tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, sucuk eggs, börek, and endless bread and tea. Try it in Beşiktaş (Pando) or Karaköy's breakfast restaurants.

Street food essentials

• Simit — sesame-crusted bread rings, sold from red carts everywhere. Best fresh in the morning.
• Balık ekmek — grilled fish in bread at Eminönü, eaten on stools by the water.
• Midye dolma — mussels stuffed with spiced rice and a squeeze of lemon.
• Kumpir — giant baked potatoes loaded with toppings, famous in Ortaköy.
• Tantuni — finely chopped beef wrapped in lavash, originally from Mersin.

Meyhane culture

The meyhane is a traditional tavern serving rakı, mezes, and grilled fish. The mezes (cold and hot small plates) are the star: aubergine salad, fava bean purée, octopus, lakerda, börek. The Beyoğlu fish market street (Nevizade) and Asmalımescit are the classic addresses. Order rakı with cold water, slowly, and stay for hours — that is the point.

Seafood by the Bosphorus

For a special evening, dine at a fish restaurant in Arnavutköy, Beylerbeyi or Çengelköy. Order whatever is in season — sea bass, bluefish (lüfer), turbot — grilled simply with olive oil and lemon. Sit outside if the weather allows.

Desserts you must try

• Baklava — the pistachio version from Gaziantep-style shops like Karaköy Güllüoğlu is the benchmark.
• Künefe — shredded pastry with melted cheese and syrup, served hot.
• Dondurma — chewy Turkish ice cream from a vendor in Mado or Beyoğlu.
• Lokum (Turkish delight) — buy from Hacı Bekir, the original shop since 1777.

Coffee and tea

Turkish coffee is a slow ritual, served with a glass of water and a piece of lokum. Tea (çay) is the everyday drink, sipped from tulip glasses all day. The third-wave coffee scene in Karaköy and Kadıköy is genuinely excellent.

Vegetarian and halal

Turkish cuisine is naturally vegetarian-friendly thanks to the mezes, gözleme, and pilavs. Almost all restaurants serve halal meat unless they are specifically wine bars or international. Our team can suggest restaurants matched to specific dietary needs.

Want a guided food tour?

Our local guides run small-group food walks in Karaköy, Kadıköy and the Spice Bazaar that visit 6–8 stops in an evening. It is the fastest way to learn the city through its food.